Paislejas pilsētas Skotijā mango sēklas motīva raksts
Explanation:
http://www.heritageinstitute.com/zoroastrianism/trade/paisle...
Paisleja ir pilsēta, kam nav sakara ar LV vārdnīcas "nierīšu rakstu":
Boteh is a Persian word meaning bush, shrub, a thicket - krūms
Kashmiri Buta
The earliest surviving examples of the boteh motif in the weavings of Kashmir, are from the third quarter of the 15 century CE. reportedly commissioned by Sultan Zein-al-Aabedin (d. 1468). This Sultan is the one who, according to Kashmiri historians, geographers and researchers, brought the “decorative designs from Iran to India.” The motif has since become a very popular theme of Kashmiri woollen scarves.
» Offsite reading at TextileAsArt.com
Paisley
Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland with the previous Anchor thread mill (one of the largest in the world) in the foreground
Paisley, Renfrewshire, Scotland with the previous Anchor thread mill (one of the
largest in the world) in the foreground.
Image credit: Robert Orr at Flickr
A preserved loom at a weaver's cottage in Kilbarchan close to Paisley. At one time there were 900 looms in Kilbarchan
A preserved loom at a weaver's cottage in Kilbarchan close to Paisley.
At one time there were 900 looms in Kilbarchan
Image credit: The Beckett Blog
The western name for the boteh motif is taken from Paisley, a town in western Scotland not too far from Glasgow, which had once specialized in the production of scarves and shawls (from the Persian word shal) decorated with the boteh motif.
In the first half of the 17th century CE, the British East India Company introduced boteh shawls other fabric articles made in Kashmir to Europe. Kashmir was a northern Indian kingdom. The imports from Kashmir, especially the women's shawls, became popular throughout Europe, and soon, demand outstripped supply. European weavers in France, England and Holland took advantage of the demand to produce imitations. European hand weaving technology, however, was less sophisticated than the age old hand-weaving techniques of Persia and Kashmir, and the number of colours in the European weave was initially limited to two. While local manufacture made fabrics with the boteh design more accessible in Europe, the original Kashmiri and Persian fabrics commanded a premium in price because of their beauty and superior quality.
Britain took the lead in manufacturing imitation fabrics - especially women's shawls - using the boteh design, when in 1790 and 1792 hand weavers in Edinburgh and Norwich began to reproduce the Kashmir and Persian shawls. Weavers in the town of Paisley joined this growing industry in 1805. In 1812, the Paisley weavers introduced an attachment to their handlooms that enabled them to use five different colours of yarn. This innovation gave the Paisley weavers a competitive edge over weavers elsewhere who were only using two colours, commonly indigo and madder. The Paisley weavers also took special care to imitate the Kashmiri shawls as closely as possible. In order to copy the latest Kashmiri shawl designs, agents from Paisley travelled to London where the Kashmiri shawls were arriving by sea. Within eight days of the arrival of a batch of Kashmiri shawls from India, Paisley imitations were being sold in London for £12 while the original Kashmiri shawls were selling for between £70 and £100.
It wasn't long before the name Paisley became synonymous with the boteh motif and demand for the imitation shawls grew as women all over Britain began to ask for 'Paisleys'. The weavers of Paisley developed a much sought after skill and at the peak of demand of their shawls they became the most highly-paid and well-educated workforce in the country. The high wages attracted more apprentices and at one point in the number of skilled weavers in Paisley numbered 6,000. The weavers worked out of their cottages or in loom-shops holding four to six looms. Paisley had a thriving cottage industry of weavers. Unfortunately, this boom would be short-lived.
With the introduction of semi-automated Jacquard looms in the the 1800s, Europeans gained the ability to mechanically weave fabrics with up to five colors. In addition, shawls could be woven in one piece with bolder designs. The Jacquard loom which used punched cards instead of a drawboy was introduced to Paisley in the 1820’s. The drawboy pulled the ropes controlling the overhead harness on the loom when the weaver would called out his instructions. While this development of the Jacquard loom produced a more error free fabric, it also reduced the manpower needed to operate a loom which became larger and more expensive. The development changed what was a cottage industry into a factory based one and the workers were given specific tasks and had to develop a different skill set. Now there was a division of labour and workers had to have specialized skills. By 1860, the Paisley factories were able to produce shawls with up to fifteen colors, but that number was still only a quarter of the colours in some Kashmiri shawls.
Yet another development would hasten the decline of the woven shawl industry in Paisley - fabric printing. The printing of designs onto a fabric - rather than weaving the design - decreased the cost of producing fabric designs. By the 1860s, most hand weavers including those in Paisley, were living in poverty. Many migrated to Canada and Australia.
Through the rise and fall of Paisley's fortunes, hand-woven Kashmiri shawls continued to be synonymous with high quality, many becoming a part of a family's heirloom. At the peak of their popularity, the cost of a high quality Kashmiri shawl in Britain was equivalent to the price of a small house. The East India Company continued to sell them at twice-yearly shawl sales in London.
Suggested additional reading:
» Yazd. Modern Iran's Zoroastrian Home
» Termeh - Heritage Fabric & Aryan Trade
» Aryan Trade
» Top
Example sentence(s):- http://www.heritageinstitute.com/zoroastrianism/trade/paisley.htm
Reference: http://www.heritageinstitute.com/zoroastrianism/trade/paisle...
| VEIKMANE
Latvia
Local time: 22:07
Native speaker of:  Latvian
|
|
peer agreement (net): +2
peer agreement (net): -1
