Etavillionieren
English translation: apply pattern
| 10:37 Mar 23, 2016 |
| German to English translations [PRO] Tech/Engineering - Textiles / Clothing / Fashion / glove-making | |||||||
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|  Selected response from: Mack Tillman Germany Local time: 13:04 | ||||||
Grading comment
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| Summary of answers provided | ||||
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| 3 | apply pattern |
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| 3 -1 | punch; stamp |
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| Summary of reference entries provided | |||
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| tranking / tranks |
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| Discussion entries: 4 | |
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Answers
8 hrs confidence: 
peer agreement (net): -1
peer agreement (net): -1punch; stamp Explanation: die fertig etavionierten (sic) Handschuhe vorgeschnitten, das heißt, sie werden so ausgestanzt, dass sie ihre endgültige Form vor der Naht bekommen. http://www.proz.com/kudoz/german_to_english/other/539878-eta... "The workmen who stretch the skins, stamp, cut, and stitch the gloves are paid at the rate of 14 cents per hour.[...] As soon as it (shape of an unstitched glove) it is sufficiently stretched so as to take the outline of this model it is placed under a heavy die and stamped out, the buttonholes and opening at the wrist being cut out by hand” https://goo.gl/4p5rsp "punch": https://goo.gl/Dksd03 |
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19 hrs confidence:
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1 day 3 hrs |
| Reference: tranking / tranks Reference information: From LEATHER GOODS AND GLOVES BY HELEN MARY LEHMANN Glove Patterns In making gloves the first step is marking off the leather into square feet, one square for each glove. The expert cutters who do this work avoid those parts of the skin which have been scarred or damaged in any way during the tanning or finishing processes, as these would make the glove imperfect. The next workman lays his pasteboard patterns on the squares in such a way as to escape minor flaws, secure elasticity and strength where they are most needed, and use the skin to the best advantage. Each piece of leather is dampened and stretched before cutting so that the "stretch" may be normal and the finished glove not pull out of shape when fitted on the hand. The cutter tests the skin as he applies the pattern, allowing a little fullness for the flexing of the hand and also considering the kind of sewing to be used, as some types of seam require more leather than others. This process is called "tranking," and the pieces are known as "tranks." The workman is expected to cut a perfect glove from each square foot of leather. If he does not he is considered inefficient unless he can prove that the skin came to him in a damaged condition. Cutting The tranked pieces are laid in piles and the gloves stamped out with metal dies. https://archive.org/stream/leathergoodsglov00lehm/leathergoo... From Dictionnaire anglais-francais, et francais-anglais TRANK [among Glovers] - étavillon https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ZHfFRrpahe8C&pg=PA709&dq... From Le grand dictionnaire terminologique (GDT) étavillonner Définition To pull the trank out width-ways to fit the pattern of the glove being made. http://www.granddictionnaire.com/ficheOqlf.aspx?Id_Fiche=170... From Die Deutsche Lederhandschuhindustrie. Verhandlungen und Berichte Die so entstandenen Lederstücke werden gemessen (ridelliert) und auf eine Schablone gezogen, um Länge und Breite des Handschuhs von bestimmter Nummer zu erhalten (étavillonieren, von étavillon = zugerichtetes Leder). https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=kWcHAQAAIAAJ&q="etavillo... |
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